We repair the washing machine independently
Everything in life once breaks, something eternal was not invented yet. It will be a question in this article about repair of the washing machine. Depending on manufacturing firm, operating conditions and many other factors, this moment sooner or later, but will come.
In our family the washing machine of LG, bought it according to the recommendations of several specialists. But the faultless period of operation of LG was not too big, the wife's "favourite" worked slightly more than 4 years.
During the next washing something shot inside and everything stopped. Attempts again to start the unit were unsuccessful. Having disconnected from all communications (power supply, water, the sewerage) and having removed the back cover, it was well visible: water through the control opening of the gland, flowing down, got on the connector of connection of the electric motor - and something closed. Under repair modern washing machines I had no experience, and such "successful" moment, at last, was provided.
Rang out first of all the electric motor (there I will corrode on 10 conclusions), everything showed that "the live cursor". But to look at this part of the machine, it should be sorted completely. As afterwards I saw, the engine fastens between covers of the external drum.
Here in such mode the washing machine stopped
For further dismantling it is necessary to merge water, having opened the hatch below. On the right there is the short thin hose with the pro-barrel.
After check of the engine it was necessary to inspect the electric part further. For this purpose removed the upper cover, it fastens two bolts behind. All wires were externally in good shape, so it was necessary to remove the module (brains). It fastens the right side latches, and left - two self-tapping screws which stand under the container for laundry detergent. On the photo the module is taken.
The module externally was in perfect tune. Began to deal with it step by step. All printed circuit board from two parties is filled in with the soft kompaud.
Such way to find fault of nothing gave. It was necessary to open компауд. I tried to make it from the open, visible party, but understood: it will be very difficult to lift the payment, and most likely, it is impossible. On the Internet at forums esteemed as it becomes. It appears, it is necessary to do necropsy from the display, to cut windows in plastics the knife or just the soldering iron, and I started:
I remove the display payment - it at the edges keeps on latches - and I cut windows for check, in the place of inspection of the scheme.
It was necessary to do several windows. The site of the scheme behind the site persistently conducted to the processor. The cause of defect of the module was in it. Further repair just did not make sense. It is easier simple to buy and replace the module.
Again "went" to the Internet behind the prices of modules. They were quite acceptable (around 3 thousand). It in comparison with repair in service is 60-70% cheaper. Rang out to local masters, in one place offered б. at. (neremontirovanny) for 2.200 rub, also bought it. Put it and started short washing (30 min.). The machine worked like clock-work again. And I sat next and did not assume that water would not get on the connector again.
The gland should be changed unambiguously, and at the same time and to look at bearings (whether water got to them). Washing was made when checking the module with uncovered, so it should not be removed any more. Again I take the module, having disconnected all plugs and wires. I remove the pulley, having turned off the bolt in the center (the thread normal - right). Taking off the belt, just in case looked in what direction letters are written to put it also.
The pulley is removed without any efforts.
We remove the loading hatch from the obverse. It fastens two screws.
After that it is necessary to remove the collar which holds big rubber sealing to the corrugation.
We remove water supply electrovalves. They fasten two bolts to the back wall.
We remove the container for powder and suitable rubber tubes.
It is obligatory to remove the upper level (corner) as with it not to pull out the drum. Further it is necessary to disconnect the lower fastening of the drum, their two.
Having pressed on the acting short moustaches, they can easily be pulled out from the place of landing. In the picture it is well visible these short moustaches. It seems, almost everything that connects the drum with the body, it is disconnected.
Now the drum hangs only on springs. And it is desirable to do the following stage together.
Having undertaken springs, we take the drum from the machine body. The following on the course - removal of loads, and upper and side. Upper it is better to remove before extraction of the drum (the weight will decrease).
From "stiralka" there was one body. Loads are removed from the drum, further we remove the lock ring which holds sealing to the corrugation (the picture, unfortunately, did not make).
There is the photo, but later on which also the lock ring is well visible to the corrugation.
And already without loads I took out the drum to the yard, weather allowed. Further the upper drum should be sorted. It consists of two halves which connect self-tapping screws around. These halves connect hermetically since in this drum there is water during washing.
In the plastic drum there is other drum, or the tank from stainless steel for linen. Now it is possible to look why the gland and in what it the state began to flow.
On the photo it is well visible that during washing the iron drum rubbed (clung) about the gland and damaged it. At once I will tell that during washing the washing machine published the silent scratch. We did not pay attention to this sound, especially it appeared at the very end of washing.
Now everything was clear, it was friction on the gland. The gland from the seat was taken without any efforts. Having put this part in order, I saw that on this cover around the gland cracks went while scarcely noticeable, and it means that there is the high probability that process will go further and will begin to flow then the drum. I pointed these cracks to the photo by arrows. Bearings were in the excellent state, and water did not get to them. Began to put the new gland, but it "did not want" to sit in the slot. This question at the designer was painfully not finished. And I decided to paste it.
For this purpose bought Dyson sealant, from silicones equal to which is not present (from experience). The gland put on glue, and at the same time and filled near bosoms with glue too. Made the same procedure and on the other hand.
I think, it will add rigidity of this part. Finished also the drainage. I inserted the tubule of suitable diameter into the opening and fixed by the same glue it on the drum cover.
Look how it turned out.
Then made assembly of the washing machine upside-down.
And now it works, even, apparently, is slightly more silent. Repair was simple, cost me with glue and replacement of the gland 2.650 rubles. In our workshops one replacement of the gland or bearings costs 3.500 rubles, and I changed also the module. I think, that who wants to risk to repair the washing machine itself, article somehow will help with it. For repair the cross screw-driver, keys 10, 17 and desire is necessary. Good luck to you!Top